Com Tam Ba Ghien
No list of cơm tấm eateries in Saigon would be complete without singing the praises of Ba Ghiền, perhaps the most famous of them all. To its credit, despite the level of fame and the burgeoning turnover of customers, Ba Ghiền has resisted the urge to revamp the decor. From the outside, it looks like a remote antarctic whaling station: a dilapidated jumble of metal grilles, corrugated iron sheets, and tarpaulins, with two large chimneys churning smoke into the sky from a giant metallic grill. Inside, the light is diffused by smoke; the walls stained black; the plaster peeling off like wet paper; the floor strewn with tissues and bones. And this is a good thing, because at Ba Ghiền it’s all about the food. Each day, hundreds of diners come here to enjoy the enormous slabs of marinated pork chop, served on a plate of heaped broken rice. This is more than a meal: it’s the quintessential Saigon experience.
Address: 84 Đặng Văn Ngữ Street, Phú Nhuận District
Opening hours: 8am-9.30pm
Price: 70,000vnđ ($3) | In business for: 20 years